TECHNIQUES OF PATTERN MAKING (ELECTIVE)

Paper Code: 
FSD 144 I
Credits: 
4
Contact Hours: 
60.00
Max. Marks: 
100.00
Objective: 
  • To develop understanding of the relation of the pattern and garment.
  • To apply the knowledge of pattern grading.
12.00
Unit I: 
Body Measurements
  • Appropriate tools for Body Measurements
  • Study of Anthropometric measurements- Procedure for taking body measurements for men, women and children
  • Locating land marks
  • Formation of standard size chart in relation to Asymmetrical and ideal figure types
  • Evaluation of posture, Identifying different body types
  • Introduction to Pattern Making Techniques & Tools
  • Drafting: Principles, application and importance in garment making principles
12.00
Unit II: 
Flat Pattern Design
  • Flat Pattern Design Process: Design Analysis, Executing Pattern Work, Developing Original Designs, Flat Pattern Supplies
  • Dart Principles: Definitions, Locating Pivot Points and Pivot Circles, Dart Details
  • Flat Patterns: Principle, Application of Pivot method and Slash & Spread Method/ Dart Manipulation, Contouring, Additional Fullness, Creating Styles through Dart Manipulation and Relocation of Dart
  • Completing Patterns: Perfecting Seam lines, Folding Darts, Notches, Perfecting and Notching Seam lines, Grain line, Seam Allowances, Hem Allowances, Labeling
12.00
Unit III: 
Draping
  • Basic Preparation:  Equipment needed, The dress form, pressing equipment, Grain, Preparation of Muslin, Seam allowances
  • Principles and Application of Draping Types of dress form
  • Basic Patterns: Basic Bodice (Front & Back), basic skirt, basic sleeve
  • Draping Fabric and Fitting: Transferring fabric patterns to paper, Fitting
12.00
Unit IV: 
Pattern Grading
  • Sizes, Principles, Grading points, Grading terminology, selecting a grading system, Basic Grading Techniques
12.00
Unit V: 
Fitting
  • Fabric Grain, Types of ease: Darts and seams, gathers, pleats
  • Factors affecting good fit
  • Basic pattern alterations in length, width, waist, hipline etc.
  • Common problems encountered in fitting & their remedies
Essential Readings: 
  • Gerry Cooklin,(2009) Pattern Grading for Women’s Clothes, The Technology of Sizing, Blackwell Science
  • Nora M. Macdonald, (2019) Principle of Flat Pattern Design, Fairchild Publications, Inc., New York
  • Jaffe H., Relis N. (2011) Draping for Fashion Design, Pearson Education, Inc.
  • Kallal M. J. (1985) Construction, Macmillan Publishing Company, New York
Academic Year: 
2022-23
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