Faculty Development Programme on Textiles Weaves

Name of the Department: Fashion & Textiles

Name of the Activity: Faculty Development Programme

Date: 22-26 February 2022 (Slot-I)

Venue: Weavers Service Centre, Kamdhenu Commercial Complex, Civil Lines, Ajmer Road, Jaipur-302006 (Rajasthan)

Topic on which activity was organized: Handspun yarn, Natural Dyeing, Handloom Weaving- Kota Doria, Banarasi Brocade, Pattu, Handloom Innovative Techniques and Products, Demo on Zardozi, Minakari, Aritari, Gota patti work

No. of Participants: 03 faculties from the Department were deputed to attend the aforesaid event. The faculty members were Dr. Radha Kashyap, Ms. Neha Panwar and Dr. Vipin Kumari

Objective of the activity: To create awareness and document traditional local terms on handloom weaving, display of innovative products developed through various handloom techniques, live demonstration and interaction with various experts and artisans in the field.

Description:

Weavers Service Centre has organized an Faculty Development Programme from 22-26 February 2022. Mr. Tapan Sharma, Deputy Director & Head, Weavers Service Centre, Jaipur took an initiative for organizing this event. The complete FDP was carried under two sessions for all five days in which various faculties from Govt. Polytechnic Hisar, IIHT Jodhpur, Guwahati, Selum, NIFT New Delhi and institutes from Jaipur have participated.

The session started (Day-1, Session I) with a brief introduction and visit to the campus where a variety of handloom innovative products made of jute, hand spun yarn, recycling material, bamboo sticks were displayed which altogether showcased home textiles, interiors, furnishing and apparels.

In the second session (Day-1, Session II) they showcased shade cards prepared from various natural dyes. Rishikesh Ji explained different styles of batik printing and textures, he also discussed various tools used in tie and dye. A small briefing of a new fabric named as JEANSWA FABRIC was also introduced in this session, this fabric was basically natural indigo dyed handloom fabric.

In continuation with this session, Resource person in NATURAL DYEING- National Awardee Mr. Brij Ballabh Udaiwal carried the demonstration on the process of dyeing with natural dye i.e., INDIGO DYES where the fermentation process of Indigo dye was done as a preliminary step in which stock solution was prepared using chuna, imli pulp, TRO and indigo dye and the same was left for 24 hours.

(Day-2, Session I) National Awardee Artisan Mr. Madhuram Ji from Pokhran, Rajasthan  started with a live demonstration on HAND SPUN YARN i.e., wool extracted from the camel was manually spun in a continuous form. These yarns were also used in making BAKLA SHAWL in which yarns taken from goats are used in warp and yarns from camels are used in weft direction during weaving.

Then Artisan Mr. Modaram Ji from Bikaner had also given live demonstration on hand spun yarn i.e., wool fibre extracted from sheep. Both Desi and Merino wool were used for making PATTU SHAWL. Articles like saree and kurta were also produced using these hand spun yarn.

After this Artisan Ms. Seema Ji from Jharkhand have given live demonstration on hand spun yarn i.e., MATKA SILK. She spun the silk yarn extracted from cocoons using MATKA and GHICHA. Even she showcased many varieties like MUNGA, TUSSAR, AHINSA, CHOCHO SILK (made from outermost covering of mulberry silk and used for making carpets) and NOIL SILK (at the time of producing silk fabric, the short fibres left are also used in making textiles).

(Day-2, Session II) This session was the continuation of the prior day where Natural Dye: Indigo was kept for the fermentation process. The Stock solution was checked by Resource Person Mr. Karamveer Bharti Ji and the upper white chuna layer after fermentation was removed. The observed colour was dark green in colour which indicated that the solution is ready to dye. After dyeing with indigo dye, natural extracts from onion skin and turmeric were also used for dyeing articles. Even six different mordants were used to dye with turmeric so as to obtain various shades. Various tie and dye techniques were used to dye samples from thes natural dyes.

(Day-3, Session I)  The session started on Handloom Weaving i.e., KOTA DORIA, the Resource Person was National Awardee Mr. Ansari Ji from Kota gave a brief  introduction on the historical existence and development of Kota Doria where it was generally referred to as KHAT (square shape consists of 14 yarns, one square inch has total 28 yarns). The designs were developed for turbans, kurtas, jackets and shawls during princely times. He also explained various tools and parts of loom used for weaving Kota Doria with reference to traditional local names. The design pattern & development, weaving on loom, problems and challenges compared to powerloom  and markets for Kota Doria was also a part of this session.

(Day-3, Session II) This session was emphasized on Handloom Weaving i.e., BANARASI BROCADE in which Resource Person Mr. Azhaaz Ahmed has focused on the traditional design development to create design sarees through NASHAMAND (without using graph) which was basically produced on MACHAAN. The complete design is based on CHOK and two weavers sit on opposite sides of the loom to produce the brocade fabric. He also explained various tools and loom parts used in weaving brocade sarees in their local traditional terms.

(Day-4, Session I) The session started with a visit to the DESIGN RESOURCE CENTRE where a wide range of products in apparel, accessories, home textiles and interior decor were displayed. The design and development of every product was briefly explained by Mr. Tapan Sharma Sir. The articles were basically created using innovative handloom techniques and by using spun yarn, silk and wool, jute, plastic etc.

After this, session on RESIN ART was carried by the Resource Person Mr. Dharmendra Ji in which he briefly discussed the making with various effects, materials and chemicals used in this art. He also presented some of the articles produced by Resin Art among which one was created using handloom textile material.

(Day- 4, Session II) The session started on Handloom Weaving i.e., PATTU, the Resource Person was Mr. Modaram Ji and Mr. Jitendra Ji from Bikaner. He focused on several local terminology for motifs, tools and parts of loom. Pattu originally weaved from Barmer and produced using hand spun wool called PLAIN HARWALIYA PATTU and Lady Shawl is known as LUNKARIYA. These Pattu shawls were generally gifted to daughters on their marriage. Initially pit loom was used to develop pattu in off white colour but now multi colours are being used in weaving.

Then the session was followed by introducing a THREE DIMENSIONAL LOOM by Mr. Tapan Sharma Sir for making seamless products on loom with eight harnesses in which double cloth was prepared and the mid layer was used to create three dimensional fabric. Even material like plastic, green leaves, stem, rope etc can be used to create these structures. Skirts, kaftan, jackets, handbags, pouches, neckpieces, footwear, lamp shed, wall hanging, etc were developed using this technique.

(Day- 5, Session I) The session started with ZARDOZI in which Resource Person Mr. Naushad Ji has given live demonstrations on Aari tari, sequins, danka, gotta-pati work. All the surface enrichment work was done on an ADDA FRAME (6 feet in length) used for making saree, dupatta, shawl etc. He showcased various tools and material required in the development of surface embellishment. He also explained the process of making design and transferring NAKSHA (design) to the fabric manually.

(Day- 5, Session II) In the last session a brief meeting and discussion on documentation of hand spun yarn and handloom weaving i.e., Kota Doria was made. Weavers Service Centre also handover the JEANSWA FABRIC to every participating Institute to convert the fabrics into innovative products, so that they can effectively promote Natural Dyeing and Handloom Weaving in future. A new concept of Handloom Signature was introduced where the woven symbol indicates and ensures that the work done on fabric is handloom with artisan identity.

Outcome of the activity: The Faculty Development Program was a learning experience where several aspects of sourcing, design and its development in product form were undertaken. Session on Natural Dyes- Indigo, Onion Skin, Turmeric; Hand Spun Yarn- Sheep wool, Camel wool, Matka silk; Handloom Weaving- Kota Doria, Banarasi Brocade, Pattu; Three Dimensional Handloom Products, Surface Embellishment Techniques- Zardozi, Gota-Patti, Danka, Sequins were the gist of the FDP. The experts and artisans were the key factor for all the sessions due to which traditional terminology used in the local areas were highlighted. The origin and historical movement of textiles from past to present was significantly presented by the artisans. Live demonstration, interactive session, group discussion and activity have made the sessions more interesting and fruitful.           

Dr. Radha Kashyap                                                          Ms. Neha Panwar      Head, Department of Fashion & Textiles                      Teacher Co-ordinator